Georgia - Full of Surprises

The church at Uplistsikhe

Georgia (Sakartvelo in Georgian - the ‘land of the wolf’) is a place that never ceases to surprise.

This tour took us first to Jvari Monastery, where Georgia first became a Christian nation. The church itself is nice, but the view of the confluence of the Kura, Mtkvari, and Aragvi Rivers, near the ancient capital of the Georgian kingdom of Iberia, Mtskheta, is quite stunning.

The tour moved on to Gori, the birthplace of Joseph Stalin.

Georgia’s relationship with the erstwhile dictator of the former Soviet Union is somewhat complex. There is no family in the entire country that was not touched by his brutality - he sent millions to die in the Siberian gulags. Yet he is still revered as a national hero - almost as a saint. We decided not to pay to enter the museum. Given what he did, it didn't seem right.

We then moved on from lunch to the incredible Uplistsikhe cave houses complex. These rocky dwellings, carved into the landscape, were in continuous use right up until the 16th century. This is a completely unmissable sight, utterly unique and very special. The ancient city itself is amazing. The views from the top of the abandoned village and out across the Kura River are just wonderful.

The final stop on the tour was Svetitskhoveli Cathedral in Mtskheta. This cathedral is the most significant for all Georgian Orthodox Christians, both due to the legends surrounding it (that it was built by a peasant with no education in the 6th century, that it has a pillar which is a catalyst for miracles, and that a bone fragment from the disciple Andrew is said to be housed there) and the fact that Georgian kings, queens, and noblemen are buried there.

Whatever the truth, it's an impressive church and, in a land with a deep history and religious belief, it's well worth a visit.

Important note: Parts of this tour are not accessible for those with mobility issues.

How to get there

Uplistsikhe Cave City

British Airways and EasyJet have direct flights to Tbilisi from London. EasyJet is currently by far the cheapest (by around 50%!). Other airlines may also have indirect flights, but are likely to be much more expensive.

There are plenty of tour agencies in Tbilisi offering tours to this remarkable place. We suggest shopping around and booking online as it seems to be much cheaper than booking in person.

The confluence of the Kura, Mtkvari, and Aragvi Rivers

How we did it

Due to timing to fit it neatly into our annual leave, we flew from Glasgow to Geneva and picked up the flight to Tbilisi the next day. On the way back, we flew via London Luton. There is quite a long layover between the flights on the way back, so you may want to book a hotel in Luton or change flights in Geneva.

Hotel: Citadel Narikala, through Expedia. This is a very unique hotel with a top-notch breakfast which we heartily recommend—except if you have mobility issues as it's on a steep hill.

Flights: EasyJet

Tours: Our tour was provided by Imperial Tours, booked through Viator.

Our top tips

• Wine tasting is also available at the top of the Uplistsikhe complex for GEL 5 (around £1.60)

  extra. This wine has been matured in the traditional way - in clay pots buried beneath the ground. We didn't avail ourselves of the opportunity: we concentrated on pictures and being in a fit state to get back down!

• Bring a sturdy pair of shoes with a good grip as you will need them.

• Check the weather before you go. The rocks may become slippery if it's been raining.

Want to see where we visited? Click here